Evolution of the GMT

Much like the first girl you kiss or your first car, one’s first Vintage Rolex will linger in the memory, no matter where one’s subsequent collecting interests may lead. For me, that “first” was a 1675 GMT-Master. It was a matte dialed, thin case model from the late 1960s. When I saw it, I knew I had to have it. It was great. Pepsi bezel. My first Rolex Sports watch and vintage, too! Set for life…

And then, I saw this baby:

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Rolex GMT-Master Reference 6542 — the “Pussy Galore”

The 6542 — “Pussy Galore!” I didn’t know that it was called that then. Heck, I hadn’t even become a regular on any forums yet and didn’t really know much about no-crown-guards models or gilt vs. matte dials. But I did know that I really liked the look of the watch with that mini GMT hand and beautiful glossy “chocolate” dial. And that plastic bezel insert — Humina-humina…

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6542 — gloss “chocolate” gilt dial & plastic Pepsi bezel insert

So I sold the matte dialed 1675 and, by the luckiest of coincidences, I was fortunate enough to purchase this 6542.

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6542 movement — Calibre 1035 with decorated “butterfly” rotor

Here is the beautiful movement, engraved with caliber ID “1035” (although I have read that Rolex called this GMT-specific caliber “1036” and later variations included “1066”), featuring a decorated “butterfly” rotor. This 6542 is stamped “1 1958” and has a case/serial # of 35x,xxx.

I was sure that this 6542 was the only GMT I would “need.” After all, when you have the rarest variety, who wants any other kind? Well, clearly I had not come to grips with the fact that I was rapidly becoming a vintage watch addict and “needed” to get examples of the other types of gilt/gloss GMTs out there.

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1675 — first generation, pointed crown guards, gilt dial

The next evolution of the GMT-Master incorporated pointed crown guards similar to those introduced on the Sub with the 5512 (ca. 1959–60) and did away with the plastic bezel insert in favor of a screen-printed metal insert, which had been phased in on the 6542.

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1675 early — dial, pointed crown guards

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Calibre 1565 — still decorated rotor

This first generation of the newly designated model 1675 featured a new caliber as well — the 1565 — with a different style rotor, albeit still decorated. This example is date-stamped “III 61” and has a case/serial # of 69x,xxx.

That left me with one more gilt/gloss variety to acquire…

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1675 — square crown guards era, thicker lacquer gilt dial

The next change in the model came about four years later with the crown guards becoming square and the disappearance of the outer minute track. The character of the gloss dial is also somewhat different — with what seems to me a thicker, shinier layer of lacquer.

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1675 square CG — dial detail, no outer minute track

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Calibre 1570/5 — undecorated, the Rolex workhorse for 25 years

The movement was also upgraded to caliber 1570/5, which became the workhorse for many Rolex models over the next 25 years. Note that all extraneous decoration is put aside with the introduction of this movement. This square crown guards 1675 is date stamped “II 65” and has a case/serial # of 1,30x,xxx.

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Late 1675 — matte dial, white printing, large-arrow GMT hand · Photo: Felipe

Crown Sides, Bezels & Casebacks Compared

Here are the crown sides and bezels of these three versions of the GMT:

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Crown sides & bezels — three GMT generations side by side

…and the case backs (note the big Bubbleback/early Sub style of the 6542 back on the left):

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Casebacks — 6542 Bubbleback style (left) vs later 1675 variants

A First Love

After many years in the shadows of its more celebrated stable mate, the great Submariner, the GMT-Master — choice of test pilots, astronauts and world travelers — appears to me to be poised for its moment in the sun. It is one of the few affordable Vintage Rolex with multiple complications. It is a supremely practical tool watch with plenty of water resistance that can also tell home time when traveling abroad.

It had a date function more than a decade before the Submariner acquired one. The 6542 was also the first Sports Rolex (not counting 1950s pre-Daytona chronographs) to be manufactured in gold. And every GMT-Master manufactured has been a Certified Chronometer.

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Rolex GMT-Master — a timeless first love