COMEX is a French diving company founded in 1961 to explore the depths of the oceans — the NASA of the deep sea.
From 1970 to 1997, COMEX worked closely with Rolex and many of their deep sea divers were issued Rolex Sea-Dwellers as a tool to do their work. Rolex used this as a way to test new watches and to resolve issues raised by COMEX — including decompression divers finding their watches unable to withstand depth. The Helium Escape Valve (HEV) was developed and tested on the 5513 and 5514 (a reference made for COMEX only) before being commercially available in the original Sea-Dweller in 1967.
COMEX watches have also been associated with records and experiments such as the maximum depth of 701 meters or the Hydra experiments, and it is common to see those watches engraved with specifics about the experiments.
What makes them very collectible is that they were never sold by Authorized Dealers — only issued to divers or officials — and that they were made in extremely low quantities even after all those years with COMEX. They also have special characteristics and unique COMEX serial numbers and engravings in the casebacks which make them very interesting for collectors. They played a big part in the development of the watches that we wear today.
Model Numbers, Production & Date Ranges
Reference
Years
Notes
5513 Submariner
1970–1973
Early Submariner with HEV
5514 Submariner
1972–1978
HEV — made for COMEX only
1680 Submariner
1978–1979
No HEV · approx. 60 examples
1665 Sea-Dweller
1977–1980
HEV · two dial versions · approx. 300 examples
16660 Sea-Dweller
1980–1984
HEV · sapphire · approx. 200 examples (50 matt dial)
16800 Submariner
1982–1986
No HEV · sapphire · approx. 300 examples
168000 Submariner
1988–1989
No HEV · glossy dial · approx. 100 examples
16610 Submariner
1986–1997
No HEV · approx. 150 examples
16600 Sea-Dweller
1992–1997
HEV · sapphire · approx. 200 examples
Submariner 5513 HEV
1970–1973 · Early Submariner with Helium Escape Valve
Photo: Jacacanta
Submariner 5514 HEV
1972–1978 · Made for COMEX only
Photo: Redwatches.com
Photo: ukwatches.com
Sea-Dweller 1665 HEV
1977–1980 · Approx. 300 examples · Original 600m dial
Photos: Delgado · This example has the original 600m dial