The Red Submariner

The Rolex 1680 reference stands among the all-time favorite vintage Rolex sport models to own, collect and wear. Occupying the same genre as the Double Red Sea Dweller, Daytona, Orange Hand and GMT, the 1680 is among the most attractive Rolex sport icons ever produced.

This is not intended to be a history of the watch, but a collector’s preference and loose guide. The following information may not be absolute — discussion and corrections are welcomed. Many of the concepts apply equally to collecting other Rolex sport models from the same era.

The Red Submariner was produced with 7 different dial versions recognized by the collector community. Estimated production ranges based on collector experience:

Serial number ranges are guidelines only. As a collector rule: do not buy a Red Sub with a case number above 4M, or a Meters First dial with a case number higher than 2.5M.

Mark II/III dials appear simultaneously — there is no way to distinguish which came first. It is not uncommon to find a later dial version in an earlier watch case due to service history. A much earlier dial in a much later case raises serious red flags — likely a Frankenwatch.

Brown dial Subs are only found in Meters First Mark II & Mark III dials, typically in case numbers in the 2.2M–2.3M range. They are ultra rare: only a small fraction of dials turned brown, and many were destroyed or replaced during service.

Dials turned brown due to unstable materials used in manufacture. The original paint was intended to be black but changed due to improper mixing ratios or chemical impurities. Environmental factors — light exposure, temperature, humidity — determined intensity. The color change process occurred in the first few years and is not ongoing.

Watches worn regularly did not turn yellow or develop patina. Watches stored unworn turned color — the degree depending on light exposure and environmental factors. The aging process stopped after several years and is not ongoing.

Due to natural aging, minor dial defects are acceptable and unavoidable when collecting Red Subs. Small broken hash marks where the case meets the dial are the most common minor imperfection — so common they are one of the “tells” used to confirm authenticity. Tiny chips where the dial meets the case are also fairly common. Tritium loss on markers is acceptable. The red writing on Mark I, III and IV dials is almost always slightly imperfect due to the printing process — some white showing at the edges of letters is normal.

Avoid dials with aftermarket or refinished printing, or with relumed markers — these trade at steep discounts and are very low demand among serious collectors.

Hands should match the patina on the dial. If they do not match, have been relumed, or changed to Luminova, it can be an eyesore — though hands can be replaced with patience. Most collectors prefer matching tritium hands that do not glow.

The most desirable inserts are the “Fat Fonts” — factory originals. Attractively faded Fat Font inserts command dramatic premiums even when scratched. Thinner font service replacement inserts do not fade and are still available from Rolex today — usable, but they do not enhance the look. The Pearl dot on the insert is a bonus; most lost their luminous material long ago but they can be replaced.

Next to the dial, the case is the second most important and valuable component. Unlike hands or an insert, a case cannot easily be changed or improved. It is very rare to find a Red Sub with an unpolished case.

Bracelets are easily changed and should not be evaluated critically. Five bracelet models are compatible with Red Subs:

Papers are not for everyone. If you simply want a nice watch at the lowest price and are not seeking an investment, buy a nice loose Red Sub and enjoy it. Papers are for serious collectors seeking investment-grade pieces.

Around the 2.8M case number, Red Subs switched to the larger green-border certificate printed on thinner paper with the Rolex watermark. Earlier examples came with the smaller thick-stock green paper. Concentrate on the dial condition and punched papers — boxes and accessories can be sourced separately.

It is impossible to authenticate a watch to be 100% genuine from pictures alone. Look for sellers with a no-hassle return policy and a reputation they want to protect. Generalist dealers who trade many models can easily make mistakes — and proving a fake is an uphill battle even with obvious evidence. Even Rolex will refuse to take sides on your behalf.