Reference 1680 · Meter First · Feet First · Dial Evolution
Red Sub Details
Introduction — Three Meter First Versions
From research done over the last 2–3 years, the earliest Red Subs are made with 2.1xx.xxx serials and with an early ’69 caseback stamp. The study of tropical dials led deeper into the Meter First 1680 series, where several early batches show black dials that faded beautifully into a tropical brown — when worn in the right conditions and never serviced, as Rolex changed these dials in earlier days for free to a new black one.
After examining and buying many Red Subs, three distinct Meter First versions were discovered — instead of the two versions previously known to the collector community.
Here the 3 types side by side:
Meter First — Type 1
Meter First — Type 2
200m / 660ft depth rating dial
Meter First — dial comparison
Version 1 — Long F, Closed 6’s, 2.1xx Serial
First in line was the dial with the long F that goes over the T from FT, starting with the 2.1xx serial. It has closed 6’s and the red paint was printed on top of the white Submariner text.
A proto-type version was discovered where the minuterie has not been printed on the dial. The T Swiss <25 print at 6 o’clock is present but no rest of the paint — and no pressure print on the surface of the dial. Also the first one discovered in an original matching case to the dial: 2.1xx serial.
Prototype version — no minuterie printed on dial
Original matching case — 2.1xx serial
With Tropic 39 — a personal favourite
Versions 2 & 3 — Delivered Together, 2.2xx Serial
The second and third versions were delivered at the same time, starting with 2.2xx serials. The difference between the two is the print method — one has the red Submariner text printed directly on the dial, and the other does not.
2,29x.xxx Brown — red printed directly on dial
Brown dial — detail view
Brown dial — second view
2,38x.xxx serial — red over white print, thin font
2,38x.xxx — detail view
Versions 2 and 3 Meter First side by side — the difference is small but evident: red directly printed vs. red over white print.
Versions 2 & 3 side by side — red direct vs. red over white
Rolex Service Relume & Fake Alert
Not all dials that look unusual have aged naturally. A Rolex NY service relume is a known occurrence — and fake Meter First dials are also in circulation. Knowing what to look for is essential.
Dial serviced by Rolex NY — extreme relume applied
Fake Alert
A scary fake Meter First dial. Focus on the last 2 lines on the dial — they are NOT correct. Compare with a genuine example and the differences become clear immediately.
A scary fake Meter First dial. Focus on the last 2 lines on the dial — they are NOT correct. Compare with a genuine example and the differences become clear immediately.
Fake Meter First dial — note incorrect last 2 lines
Genuine dial — compare to spot the differences
The Transition — Meter First to Feet First
The transition from Meter First to Feet First occurred at approximately serial 2.421.8xxx. This conclusion is based on finding a 2.421.7xx with box and papers (Meter First), and seeing a Feet First with open 6’s at serial 2.421.9xx.
Some rumour holds that Rolex decided to change the Meter/Feet position because US exports were growing strong. Or perhaps the dial maker changed. Whatever the reason, once printed differently, the dial color no longer changed — making the Meter First Red Sub a very rare sport model produced only during a short experimental period.
Last Known Meter First
2.421.7xx — complete with Box & Papers
First Known Feet First
2.421.9xx — open 6’s confirmed
Transition Point
~2.421.8xxx serial range
Collector Significance
Meter First serials produced only during a short experimental window — extremely rare
Transition era — Meter First side
Transition era — Feet First side
Feet First — Open 6’s, 3.1 Million Serial
A nice and complete Feet First example with 3.1 million serial and slightly open 6’s.
Feet First — 3.1M serial, slightly open 6’s
Feet First — 3.1M serial detail
Feet First — Closed 6’s, Final Evolution
The last variant mirrors where the series began — closed 6’s return, but now with Feet First text. The full evolution of the Red Sub dial in a single arc: closed 6’s Meter First → open 6’s Feet First → closed 6’s Feet First.
Feet First with closed 6’s — final dial evolution