Reference 1680/8 · Yellow Gold · c. 1969–1988
Gold Submariner 1680/8
Overview
The Gold Rolex Submariner Model 1680/8
“Sporty Elegance” — one phrase to describe the 1680/8, or the plastic gold sub. With most of the nice steel watches already picked up by collectors, gold watches are making a strong impression, and like their steel counterparts, original early pieces are becoming more attractive.
Gold Submariner 1680/8 — Full View
1680/8 — Profile Shot
Dial
The Nipple Dial
The dial was produced with a matt black dial with yellow gold markers — commonly known as “nipple” dials — with tritium markers. An equally beautiful deep blue dial with similar nipple markers was also offered.
As with most early 1680 watches, the dial carried depth markings with meters first; later watches came with feet first. These meter-first dials have become quite collectible.
Meters First Dial
Dial Detail
Early Dial Details
Dial Details — Feet First Variants
There are at least two different 16808 feet-first dials, differentiated by the numeral “6” typography:
The Open “6” Variant
photo: silverello
The Closed “6” Variant
photo: silverello
Rare Early Dial
photo: silverello
| Dial Material | Matt black lacquer; deep blue variant also produced |
| Markers | Yellow gold “nipple” applied markers with tritium lume |
| Depth Marking | Meters first (early, more collectible); feet first (later) |
| Feet-First Sub-Types | Open “6” and Closed “6” variants confirmed |
| Rare Early Type | Pre-production / transitional dial — distinct printing characteristics |
Bezel
Bezel Inserts
Throughout the life of the watch, inserts were generally gold numbers on a black or blue background. However, the very first inserts offered silver on black/blue background — the same as the stainless steel variety.
| Standard Insert | Gold numerals on black or blue background |
| Earliest Insert | Silver numerals on black/blue background (same as steel variant) |
| Early Pearl | No gold ring surrounding the pearl |
| Later Pearl | Set within a gold ring, inside the 12 o’clock triangle |
| Service/Replacement Pearl | Larger gold ring extending outside triangle boundaries |
Crown
Crown
| Original Crown | Twinlock |
| From 1972 Onwards | All fitted with Triplock crowns |
| Early Triplock | No external O-ring |
| Later Triplock | External O-ring — service replacement type |
Crown Detail
Crown Closeup
Bracelet
Bracelets, End Pieces & Divers Extension
Most watches were fitted with a yellow gold bracelet model no. 9290/8. The early clasp featured a raised crown at the end with the fliplock; later clasps (from approximately 4 million serial onwards) had the more common impressed crown in the center, as did later service replacement bracelets. End pieces carry no markings on the outside.
| Bracelet Ref | 9290/8 (yellow gold) |
| Early Clasp | Date stamped up to end of 1972; raised crown with fliplock |
| From 1973 | No date stamp; no bracelet number markings |
| Later Clasps (~4M+) | Impressed crown in center; 92908 marking = later or service replacement |
| Divers Extension | Labeled “PAT PENDING” or “PATETED” depending on era (same as steel counterparts) |
Bracelet & Clasp
Bracelet Detail
Gold Bracelet
PAT PENDING Divers Extension
End Pieces
Movement
Movement
As with many Submariners of its era, the 1680/8 carried the hardy calibre 1575 — the 1570 with a date module added.
| Calibre | 1575 (1570 base movement with date module) |
Calibre 1575 Movement
Caseback
Case Back
Originally, all case backs had a machined finish consisting of concentric circles. Most watches no longer retain the original finish due to wear and/or polishing over the decades.
| Original Finish | Machined, concentric circle pattern |
| Condition Note | Majority have been polished or worn — original finish rare |
Caseback — Machined Finish
Caseback Detail
Production & Rarity
Production Numbers
Impossible to estimate with certainty. Looking at auctions and sales, fewer than 40–50 examples have appeared on the market over the last several years. Additional pieces have surfaced at watch shows without being formally advertised. Some collectors guesstimate total production at less than a few thousand units — but any figure remains speculative.
< 40–50 publicly traded in recent years
Total production: speculative
Collector Notes
Final Thoughts
The gold sub is not only a very functional watch but it can be fun to wear. It can be easily worn either on the original bracelet or on a leather strap. Whether with jeans or with a suit to a wedding, it stands out and commands attention.
The 1680/8 in the Wild
Gold 1680 Reference Shot