Reference 1680 · Purchasing Guide · Collector Advice
Red Sub Buyers Guide
Before You Buy
A lot of vintage collectors like to buy a watch with all of the papers, manuals, boxes and tags, but that is a rare occurrence these days unless one is willing to part with up to a thousand or more over just the watch itself.
Here is what might be suggested when buying a Red Submariner. These four principles have stood the test of time — and saved many collectors from expensive mistakes.
Rule 1 — Buy from the Original Owner
Try to buy the watch from the original owner. While this is also not an easy thing to do, it does happen. While the watch might not have the original goodies, an original owner has probably taken better care of the watch over the years.
Why It Matters
Original owners typically have better care history, fewer unknowns in the watch’s past, and no incentive to misrepresent condition or originality.
Reality Check
Not easy to find — but it does happen. Estate sales, family connections, and long-term forum relationships are the best sources.
Rule 2 — Buy with a Rolex Service Invoice
Buy a watch that will have a service invoice from a Rolex Service Center where the dial with red is noted on the invoice. While not “definitive” authenticity, this is accepted by most collectors.
A caveat: the watch serial should really fall into the 1973 serial range. Some speculate that Red Subs were produced into the late 1970s due to literature as late as 1978 picturing a Red Sub — but there are very few collectors who would buy a Red that dates outside the range of ’67–73.
What to Look For
Rolex Service Center invoice with explicit notation of the red dial. Accepted as strong — though not definitive — authentication by the collector community.
Serial Range
Production window: 1967–1973. Be very cautious with serials outside this range. Late 1970s examples exist but find very limited collector acceptance.
Rule 3 — Insist on a Return Policy
If you find a Red Sub that has neither of the above characteristics, see if the seller will allow you to have a return policy so that you can have the watch checked out by Rolex or your own watchmaker.
An honest seller should have no problem with that at all. A seller who refuses a reasonable return window is telling you something important — listen to it.
What to Request
Sufficient time to have the watch examined by Rolex or a trusted independent watchmaker before the sale is final.
Red Flag
Any seller who resists a reasonable return policy on a five-figure vintage watch. Walk away.
Rule 4 — Do Your Homework
If you’ve never ventured into buying a vintage watch, let alone a Red Sub, do your homework. Stare at a lot of dials — there are many variations during the different production years, especially since Rolex used more than one dial manufacturer.
The collector who spends months studying dial variations before spending a dollar is the collector who doesn’t get burned. The reference pages on this site exist for exactly that reason.
Study the Dials
Mark I through Mark VIII each have distinct characteristics. Know the font, the 6 shape, the F length, the print method — before you buy.
Multiple Dial Makers
Rolex used more than one dial manufacturer across the production run. Subtle variations exist within marks — not just between them.
Use the Forums
Engage with experienced Red Sub collectors before committing. The community’s collective knowledge is invaluable and freely shared.
Good Luck
The right Red Sub, bought right, is one of the great prizes in vintage Rolex collecting. Patience is rewarded.
Red Sub with Box & Papers
A complete Red Sub with original punched papers — the benchmark for investment-grade collecting. The image below shows what a properly documented example looks like.
Rolex 1680 Red Submariner with original box and punched papers